Bedřich Smetana in Central Bohemia – The Birthplaces of National Music

Růžkovy Lhotice Château: A Carefree Youth and First Loves

The Smetana family lived in this Baroque château near Čechtice for eight years, though young Bedřich Smetana only spent his summers here, as he was already attending grammar school. Even so, this period was deeply significant—his diaries reveal that he felt truly happy in this place. A city boy by birth, he discovered the beauty of rural life and experienced his first loves, both of which left a lasting mark on his early compositions. It was here that he began composing music, including his bright and joyful polkas Jiřinková and Louisina. The latter was dedicated to his cousin Louisa, with whom he was in love.

Today, the château houses an exhibition by the Podblanické Museum titled Land of Tones: Podblanicko in the History of Music. The exhibition highlights the region as a place where many important figures of Czech and European music were born or spent time. A section dedicated to Bedřich Smetana showcases original sheet music and two pianos he once played.

Benátky nad Jizerou: Music Teacher to the Thun Family

After finishing grammar school, Smetana moved to Prague to pursue music full-time. His early years were difficult—his father, facing financial hardship, could no longer support him. Salvation came in the form of Count Felix Leopold of Thun-Hohenstein, who offered him a position as a music teacher for his five children. Though only one showed real musical talent, Smetana’s dedication ensured that all of them learned to play an instrument and could speak about music with confidence in society.

Before long, Smetana became a valued member of the Thun household, taking part in their social life and building important connections among aristocrats and musicians. He also accompanied the family on their summer stays at various estates, including their château in Benátky nad Jizerou, where he lived in the same rooms once occupied by the famed astronomer Tycho Brahe. There, he even took part in theatrical performances at the château’s restored theater.

Today, the Benátecko Museum, located in the château, holds a rare artifact from Smetana’s time—a plaster bust by sculptor Strachovský, the only one made during the composer’s lifetime. The room where he once stayed has been transformed into a memorial hall, complete with original furnishings from the period.

Lamberk: Meeting and Marrying His Second Wife

Smetana was taken to Lamberk, now part of Obříství near Neratovice, by his brother Karel, in hopes that the peaceful surroundings would help him recover after the death of his first wife, Kateřina. It worked even better than anyone had expected.

The very next day, he met Bettina, the daughter of Ferdinand, the director of the Obříství estate and his brother’s father-in-law. Her beauty, elegance, and impressive education captivated him so deeply that he fell in love with the 16-year-younger woman and proposed to her just a month later. He even expressed his feelings in the famous Bettina Polka, which he composed for her.

The wedding took place at Lamberk a year later, as the bride requested a delay. During that time, Smetana was working as the conductor of the Philharmonic Society in Gothenburg, Sweden, and he would return there several times even after the marriage.

A Glimpse into the Smetanas’ Summer Home

The former Ferdinandi family estate in Obříství-Semilkovice, once known as Lamberk, is now a memorial to Bedřich Smetana. The historic building retains much of its original charm, with most of the original furnishings still in place. In the living room, you can see the piano where Smetana composed, along with his glasses and a notebook where he sketched various ideas. The feeling that the famous composer might walk in at any moment is enhanced by the everyday items in the private rooms, such as the marital bed that still remains in the bedroom.

Outside, you can relax beneath the impressive, historic Japanese elm tree, whose branches once echoed with the sounds of Smetana’s compositions. Not far from there, you can enjoy a peaceful walk along the Elbe River on the Bedřich Smetana avenue.

Smetana at Loučeň Castle and Mcely Chateau: A Beloved Guest and Teacher

Smetana was a frequent guest of the Thurn-Taxis family, who were not only his patrons but also personal friends. Prince Alexandr Jan of Thurn-Taxis was particularly close to the composer. Their strong friendship led Smetana to visit their castle in Loučeň and nearby Mcely Chateau, where he was warmly welcomed. During his stays, he performed concerts for the family and taught the Thurn-Taxis children how to play the piano. He was loved for his charm, elegance, and artistic reputation, as well as his fondness for good food. In his later years, he composed Z domoviny (“From the Homeland”) as a gift for the princely couple.

Seeking Inspiration in Svatojiřský Forest

Smetana often took walks through Svatojiřský Forest, with one of his favorite routes leading to the Boží voda spring. He also spent many peaceful hours contemplating in a pavilion by the Vidlák pond in the Jabkenice game reserve, which still stands today. You can follow the same path today on the Loučeň educational trail, starting from Loučeň Castle, and experience the beauty of nature just as the composer once did.

Jabkenice: The Place Where Má vlast Was Created

In the Jabkenice hunting lodge, Bedřich Smetana spent the final 10 years of his life with his eldest daughter, Žofie, whose husband managed the Thurn-Taxis family forests. He moved there with his family after losing his hearing completely. Despite his deafness, Smetana composed some of his most significant works, including the famous symphonic poem Má vlast, the string quartet Z mého života, and the piano cycle České tance. The Jabkenice game reserve and Svatojiřský Forest also inspired his operas Hubička, Tajemství, and Čertova stěna.

After Smetana’s death, his friend and patron, Prince Alexandr Thurn-Taxis, established a museum in the house where Smetana had lived and donated land for a memorial.

At the Památník Bedřicha Smetany (Bedřich Smetana Memorial), you can experience the authentic interiors of Smetana’s study and family salon. The presence of the composer is brought to life through the sounds of his music, which you can listen to in peace. From the memorial, you can follow the marked Smetanova Procházka (Smetana’s Walk) trail, passing through the places that inspired him.