Three Trips in the Footsteps of Bedřich Smetana

Svatojiřský Forest, stretching between Nymburk and Mladá Boleslav, was a favorite retreat of Bedřich Smetana. Here, he found both inspiration for his music and peace in his final years. Today, you can walk the same paths and explore this vast, scenic landscape.

Tip for Walk #1:

The first suggestion is a short, easy walk along the Smetana Path, marked by the blue tourist trail. This comfortable route, suitable for strollers, takes you through the village of Jabkenice and along the edge of Svatojiřský Forest. The circular trail, which takes less than an hour, begins at the former Jabkenice gamekeeper’s lodge, now the Bedřich Smetana Memorial, featuring an exhibition focused on Smetana’s time in Jabkenice. A bit further, at the small square, you’ll notice a freestanding wooden bell tower from the 15th century, one of the oldest in the country.

• Interesting fact: The Jabkenice gamekeeper’s lodge was once the residence of the Thurn-Taxis princes’ forest administration. Bedřich Smetana stayed here with his family at the home of his daughter, Žofie, whose husband was the prince’s forest master. It was here that many of his most famous works were created, including the operas The Kiss, The Secret, The Devil’s Wall, and where he completed the My Homeland cycle. The fourth movement, From Bohemian Fields and Groves, was inspired by the Jabkenice surroundings.

Tip for Walk #2:

This walk will take you to several places connected to Bedřich Smetana. Start again at the Bedřich Smetana Memorial in Jabkenice, then follow the red tourist trail towards Loučeň. Your first stop will be the Mlýnský Pond, a peaceful spot with a grassy beach, perfect for a summer break. As you continue through Svatojiřský Forest, enjoy the impressive old trees, mainly oaks and pines, and perhaps spot some deer. Near Loučeň, the red trail briefly joins the Loučeň educational trail, leading you past Empire-style memorials and a former gamekeeper’s lodge to Loučeň Castle.

• Interesting fact: Smetana was often a guest at Loučeň and Mcely castles, hosted by the Thurn-Taxis family, his patrons and personal friends. Here, he held concerts and taught the children of the family piano. As a beloved guest and respected artist, he was known as a charming companion and a gourmet. In his later years, he dedicated the composition From My Homeland to the princely couple. The score with its dedication is on display at Loučeň Castle, along with the piano he played.

Today, Loučeň Castle is open to the public, with a variety of tours available. Families will enjoy the children’s tours and the outdoor labyrinths in the surrounding park, which features twelve different garden mazes. From Loučeň, continue along the Loučeň educational trail back to Jabkenice. You’ll pass Smetana’s Oak, a historic tree, and at the Boží voda spring, reconnect with the red trail to return to Jabkenice.

• Tip: You can grab a bite in Loučeň at the castle’s Vtipná kaše restaurant or the nearby Maxmilian hotel restaurant. If you continue along the red trail, you’ll reach the Lovecký Hotel Jívák in under an hour, where you can relax on the terrace by the pond, hidden in the woods.

Tip for Walk #3:

This walk takes you through the Jabkenice Game Reserve, a spot Smetana loved for inspiration. The route circles forest ponds along the Jabkenice Stream. Though unmarked, the trail, known as Smetana’s Walk, is easy to follow due to restricted access to other paths.

• Note: The reserve is open from July to September (daily except Mondays) and on weekends or holidays in other months. It’s closed in April and May. Dogs, bikes, and horses are not allowed.

For a more interactive experience, download Strawberries with Smetana, a mobile trail that brings Smetana’s daily life in Jabkenice to life through eight stops.